A Day Reporting in Chaotic Kolkata: A Canadian Journalist’s Experience

The day was spent alongside Mohul Bhattacharya, a 23-year-old journalist with The Statesman. Bhattacharya, a recent literature graduate, brought a sharp perspective and wry humor to his work, qualities familiar to any newsroom.

The pair met at the historic Indian Coffee House, a local institution more renowned for its nostalgic atmosphere than the quality of its coffee. Bhattacharya jokingly warned against overindulging, suggesting better options could be found at roadside stops in Quebec.

Bhattacharya expressed concerns about the state of journalism in India, noting the risks associated with criticizing the current government. He suggested that reporting is a more straightforward profession in Canada than in his home country.

“Journalism is dying in India,” Bhattacharya said. “It’s risky to criticize the Modi government. You can get into trouble for a phrase the authorities deem critical. It’s simply easier to practice the profession in Canada.”

Founded in 1818, The Statesman bills itself as one of the oldest newspapers in the country, writing for the people of India. The Kolkata bureau employs 12 journalists, two photographers, and approximately 15 support staff.

One unique aspect of the office culture: a dedicated employee serves tea to the staff. Bhattacharya suggested the idea might be well-received back at headquarters.

The Statesman identifies as centrist, but avoids taking firm political stances to maintain favor with the government, according to Bhattacharya – a common practice among many Indian newspapers.

Bhattacharya was planning to report on the booksellers of the famed “College Street Book Market.” However, recent flooding, which resulted in a 20% loss of inventory for the vendors, prompted him to consider alternative story angles. Ultimately, they decided the original story remained relevant.

The market is home to hundreds of booksellers catering to students at the University of Kolkata. Students rely on “carriers” – individuals who navigate the chaotic stalls to locate specific books, often carrying stacks on their heads in a remarkable display of agility.

Books were drying in the open air after the recent heavy rains, spread out on fences or directly on the ground, with some vendors looking exhausted from the recent challenges.

“We had a great time discussing how to get the best story, in both words and pictures,” Bhattacharya said. “It’s exactly the kind of idea-sharing that happens daily at The Statesman, between a journalist and a photographer.”

An Emotional Soccer Match

After the streets of Kolkata, the pair headed to a soccer field to cover a semi-final match of the “Eastern zone,” featuring 12-year-old boys. The prevailing belief was that Ghasiria Vidyapith would defeat Chanda Bani Vidya Bithi. That prediction held until the second half, when the underdogs, wearing black, scored three quick goals.

In a stunning turn of events, the losing team collapsed onto the field after the final whistle, in what appeared to be a choreographed display of emotion. Even more surprisingly, the winning team helped the losing players to their feet, offering comfort and wiping away tears.

To cap off the day, the visiting photographer received an unexpected trophy from the teams, a gesture of appreciation that drew applause from players, referees, and parents.