A recent analysis reveals a concerning shift in the fashion industry: a return to prioritizing extremely thin body types on runways and in advertising campaigns. Former Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Netherlands, Yeliz Çiçek, noticed the change during recent international fashion weeks, observing a decline in the representation of models with larger sizes. This trend raises public health concerns about body image and potential impacts on eating disorders.
Thinness Re-Emerges as the Industry Standard
A study by Vogue Business analyzed over 9,000 looks from 198 shows and presentations for the upcoming spring and summer seasons. The findings showed that a striking 97% of the looks featured models wearing sizes 32 or 34. Only 2% of the looks showcased sizes 36 or 38, categorized as “mid-size,” although a mere 0.9% featured sizes 40 or larger, considered “plus-size.”
The data underscores a potential reversal of recent efforts toward greater body diversity in the fashion world, which could have implications for public health and body image perceptions.
‘Forced’ Inclusivity?
While thinness has historically been the norm in fashion, there was a brief period where increased inclusivity seemed to be taking hold, driven in part by the online “body positivity” movement. However, Çiçek suggests this shift may have been superficial.
“So suddenly, all kinds of diverse models were booked, both in terms of color and body shape,” Çiçek said. “We all hoped that this wouldn’t be a one-time thing, but that it would be a trend that would continue. But now it turns out that it was actually just for show.”
Difficult and Complicated
Çiçek explained that the fashion industry is entrenched in a system that prioritizes thin models. “The greats who have been in the business for a long time really have it in their heads that they can design better for one size. They witness a model as a kind of clothes hanger.”
According to Çiçek, designers claim it’s too difficult and complicated to operate with a wider range of sizes, and they simply prefer the aesthetic of thinner models. Their influence extends throughout the fashion world.
The Rise of Eating Disorders
Maintaining this system can negatively impact young women, according to Çiçek. Annemarie van Bellegem, a pediatrician specializing in eating disorders at the Emma Children’s Hospital in Amsterdam, agrees.
“We know from previous experiences and research that the fashion industry, through the use of thin models, has an impact on the development of eating disorders.”
Perfected Images
A fashion world dominated by thin models isn’t new, but Van Bellegem notes a difference due to social media. “Young people are confronted all day long with images of perfect pictures, edited pictures.”
“Those images ensure that they are constantly exposed to that ideal image. And that makes them internalize and idealize that image much faster.”
Only One Size
During her time as Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Netherlands, Çiçek observed how difficult We see to change the system. “The September issue is the most important issue of the year. That’s when you show the new collections,” she said.
“But all the looks shown You’ll see made to size 32. So when you request samples for a shoot, it’s always size 32.”
Change From the Top
She remains pessimistic. “Even the small steps that have been taken have been reversed,” she said.
“Somewhere, from the top, someone needs to intrinsically feel that and bring about that change. And say: now it’s over and now I decide that we will only book healthy models and at least so many plus-size models.”
