The world of watch design, traditionally a male-dominated field, is seeing a shift in leadership, with women taking the helm at some of the industry’s most influential institutions. This changing of the guard raises questions about the future of horology and the impact of diverse perspectives on a centuries-old craft.
Valerie Ursenbacher currently leads instruction at HEAD, the Geneva School of Art and Design – the only art school globally offering specialized bachelor’s and master’s programs in watch design. The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, a key international organization dedicated to promoting watch culture and education, is co-led by Aurélie Streit. At the Musée International d’Horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Nathalie Marielloni serves as chief curator. And at Kelloseppäkoulu, the Finnish School of Watchmaking – alma mater to acclaimed watchmakers like Kari Voutilainen and Stepan Sarpaneva – Hanna Harlainen is director.
“When I started, there were very few women in this field,” recounts watch designer Valerie Ursenbacher, who has directed watch design education at HEAD since 2010. “At first, I was afraid,” she admits, explaining that navigating interactions with individuals hesitant to collaborate with women still requires caution at times. However, according to Ursenbacher, “women have develop into indispensable to the watch industry,” marking a significant evolution.
Ursenbacher recalls instances in the past where she “had to take a deep breath” in response to design feedback from male decision-makers. She successfully transformed these challenging situations into opportunities. By carefully listening and inquiring about manufacturing processes, she gained the knowledge needed to create designs better suited for production, without compromising aesthetics. This approach allowed her to gain an edge over many male colleagues and contributed to her career success. The shift in leadership comes as the industry continues to grapple with attracting and retaining diverse talent.
With the new generation of students at HEAD – where design programs are now 50/50 male and female – Ursenbacher believes the barriers are on the verge of falling and that women could gradually replace the traditional male figures of previous generations. “Male designers have dominated the profession for a long time and have created iconic models. Now we need to provide female designers time to see their own creations become iconic,” she emphasizes, while likewise noting that issues like equal pay still need to be addressed.
