Comptoir de Beaulieu Lausanne: Avis & Notre Immersion Gastronomique

Lausanne is betting on a bold new culinary venture to revitalize the Beaulieu district. The city has tasked two entrepreneurs with transforming the area into a gastronomic hub, and early reviews suggest the “Comptoir de Beaulieu” is delivering on its promise.

Suivez-moi

Suivez-moi

Beaulieu has long been a somewhat overlooked area of Lausanne, often frequented only during events at nearby venues. Locals generally avoid it, preferring the city center. The city’s ambition to transform Beaulieu into a dining destination was met with skepticism, but the initial offerings at the newly opened Comptoir de Beaulieu are exceeding expectations.

The location previously housed the “Comptoir Suisse,” a long-running establishment that closed in 2018 after 99 years in operation. The area’s reputation hasn’t helped its appeal, with many Lausanne residents viewing it as somewhat remote.

Locals, it seems, are quick to embrace trendy Parisian concepts but often dismiss attractions closer to home. The idea of drawing crowds to Beaulieu solely for dining was initially met with doubt, likened to suggesting a wedding on a Belarusian highway.

Adding to the skepticism, many restaurants now prominently feature a “philosophy” on their websites, filled with buzzwords like “terroir,” “authentic,” and “respect for the product.” The concern was that a new “contemporary brasserie” might simply deliver frozen fish sticks and a lackluster atmosphere.

Despite these reservations, a visit to the Comptoir de Beaulieu, which replaced the Italian restaurant Quintino, reveals a surprisingly impressive experience. The restaurant’s success could signal a shift in Lausanne’s dining scene, demonstrating the potential for revitalizing overlooked areas.

It was Friday evening, 6:44 PM, and the restaurant was empty. A potentially concerning sign, but one that quickly dissipated.

A bad omen? Perhaps a slight one.

The bartender meticulously prepared his station, while the server precisely aligned napkins. Old French variété music played softly in the background. The paint was fresh, the chandeliers imposing, and vintage posters from the original Comptoir Suisse adorned the walls, offering a nostalgic touch. The atmosphere was surprisingly cozy, a remarkable achievement given the building’s otherwise stark interior.

Guests were greeted with a smile and a classic cocktail. The menu was appealing, ambitious, and focused on regional ingredients, ranging from the “Lausanne Sour” to the “Soleil sur Beaulieu.” Prices remained under 18 francs. A Mezcal Tonka Negroni, described as “smoky, woody, sensual, and captivating,” was quickly selected.

Just that.

Au Comptoir de Beaulieu, seuls les cocktails ont le droit de fumer à l’intérieur.image: watson

A promising start, and a budding intoxication, prompted a closer look at the menu. However, deciphering the dishes proved challenging, as they were described in a unique Vaudois dialect, offering little insight into the culinary delights to come.

Five appetizers, six main courses, and three desserts with nearly unpronounceable names were on offer. Attempting to pronounce “COÛRJA. FU.” (to order the burnt butternut squash with butternut risotto and capuchin sabayon) quickly revealed that the real adventure lay in the flavors themselves.

Beneath the layer of bohemian-punk poetry, which intentionally misdirects diners, lies a labyrinth of flavors that defy easy explanation. The experience encourages intuition, discouraging a barrage of questions that would disrupt the ambiance.

“Po s’y mettre,” as they say, we opted for the beef tartare with trout eggs, served in tacos, and the open ravioli of fera. Then? The entrecote, its meat juice, its béarnaise, its gnudi, but also the toasted crozets, mushrooms, and vegetable-roasted juice, hazelnuts.

As a couple finally broke our solitude by entering the brasserie, a slice of sourdough bread, carefully prepared on-site, was offered. No formalities, but accompanied by a pat of butter that held all its secrets. This remarkable starter alone could eradicate gluten intolerance from the planet.

Coucou toi.image: watson

8:37 PM, the first glasses were empty, and the music hadn’t yet crossed the (painful) boundary of the 1980s.

We were then recommended a Viognier Sélection from the 13 Coteaux winery, which we accepted with open eyes and mouth, as the appetizers arrived. Suddenly, a display of architecture and an avalanche of colors unfolded before our eyes.

Image/: watson

Hungry, we dove without any education into this strange ravioli, as complex as it was brutally delicious. Ambition mingled with a certain madness, as a rich veal sauce generously spilled between the beef and its mustard grains on the plate opposite us.

A rock ‘n’ roll audacity and a decidedly un-Vaudois approach that was amplified in “LO GROS,” as they call the main courses: an entrecote that lived up to its name and crozets assembled into surprising lasagnas.

Oui, l’entrecôte, ladies & gentlemen.image: watson

Unsurprisingly, the desserts followed suit, from the meringue with double cream that boldly presented itself to the incongruous pairing of apple and celery.

It’s so rewarding to see local ingredients unleashed that we found ourselves eyeing the menu again, to ensure we wouldn’t have to tap into our second pillar of social security to afford this true display of talent.

Once freed from the kitchen, the chef confessed that imagining such dishes is a real headache, a far cry from a late-night snack at a crowded bar in the city center.

On dirait un défilé Chanel, nan?image: watson

What prompted a Bocuse d’Or finalist and a Green Star from the Michelin Guide to set up shop in Lausanne’s gray suburbs? Benjamin Le Maguet, 35, a self-taught chef shaped by professional swimming and possessing the rough-hewn look of an unpolished artist, knows he’s accepted a perilous mission by setting up his pots and pans in Beaulieu.

After leaving the renowned family-run Évouettes restaurant a year ago, his explosive meeting with Jasmine Gfeller, a dynamic restaurant creator in the region, sparked everything. Now, these “two hyperactive, slightly crazy” individuals have been tasked by the City of Lausanne with offering some hearty fare to this imposing Congress Center.

The brasserie at Comptoir de Beaulieu is the first discreet step in a noisy metamorphosis, touted as the gastronomic and creative playground for epicures of the future.

In 2027, they promise a multidisciplinary food court, deployed in the vast halls next door, accommodating up to 1500 stomachs, where a dozen ephemeral shops will rotate, bringing chefs to the fore.

Even if the City secures the project, the challenge is significant, as they will need to find the recipe to attract these demanding Lausanne residents (and others). An audacious and, until now, unprecedented ambition. The question remains: does the Olympic capital need a dedicated food hub, like those in Paris, London, or New York? Should the Comptoir Suisse be given a future it no longer had in 2018? Benjamin and Jasmine are convinced.

After a final espresso and an Amaretto on the rocks, we left this new brasserie with full hearts and happy stomachs (or perhaps the opposite?). While this duo undoubtedly has talent, they will need to work hard to attract diners to Beaulieu. And, incidentally, revise the playlist and send that old French variété music to the closet. Deal?

Des aurores boréales ont illuminé la Suisse

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Des aurores boréales ont illuminé la Suisse

source: lecteur