London’s culinary scene continues to evolve with innovative concepts, and KOL, opened in 2020 by chef Santiago lastra, is a prime example. The restaurant has quickly gained attention for its unique approach to Mexican cuisine-forgoing conventional imports in favor of locally sourced British ingredients to evoke authentic Mexican flavors and memories.This blend of culinary heritage and hyperlocal sourcing offers diners an experience unlike any other, earning KOL recognition as a destination for adventurous palates.
For chef Santiago Lastra, cuisine isn’t just about food—it’s a deeply personal map of memory, childhood, and discovery. His London restaurant, KOL, opened in 2020, offers a unique experience: a celebration of Mexican flavors created entirely without importing ingredients from Mexico! Instead, Lastra sources from British Isles farms and waters, transforming local produce into dishes that evoke the soul of Mexico. It’s a culinary paradox, but one that feels like pure magic.
For Santiago Lastra, leaving his homeland isn’t a loss, but an opportunity. He approaches cooking like rebuilding a childhood home with materials found along the way—a touch of English mist, a hint of Welsh soil, herbs from Kent, and, above all, an uncanny ability to transform the familiar into a distant memory. KOL doesn’t imitate Mexico; it dreams of it.
The restaurant evokes Mexico like a scent you once knew but can’t quite name, a lingering fragrance that stubbornly returns.
A Sun-Drenched Sanctuary
Stepping into KOL feels like entering a hidden sun sanctuary beneath a gray sky. The corn-colored travertine, well-traveled wood, and lamps casting a twilight glow create an atmosphere of warmth and intimacy. The open kitchen is a performance space, where diners can observe, anticipate, and savor the unfolding culinary artistry. Lastra orchestrates his movements like an archaeologist of taste—excavating, combining, and revealing hidden flavors.
A Menu of Aromatic Surprises
The tasting menu begins subtly, awakening the palate with:
— Langoustine Taco
— Burnt Cauliflower and Corn Miso
— Line-Caught Sea Bass with Wild Parsley Salsa Verde
— Smoked Wagyu with Light Mole
— Corn, Cacao, and Pollen Dessert
Trying to describe these dishes feels like a betrayal; they’re best experienced firsthand. Textures clash and harmonize, temperatures converse, and spices build in intensity. The smoked Wagyu is a standout—a rich caress, a dark cloud, a knowing nod—a dish that lingers in your memory long after the last bite. This innovative approach to Mexican cuisine has quickly established KOL as a destination for adventurous diners.
The Mezcaleria: A Hidden Heart
Descending to the Mezcaleria is a shift from ceremony to instinct. Here, laughter is louder, and drinks are deeper. The dimly lit, wood-scented space, infused with the aroma of agave, feels like a shared secret among strangers.
The cocktails are a fusion of cultures: Hot & Cold, Sorrel & Hop Sour—creations where agave meets the British climate, a combination that feels surprisingly natural. The Antojitos offer playful twists on street food classics: truffle in the quesadilla, wagyu in the empanada. It’s street food reinvented, elevated, and imbued with a sense of wonder.
KOL: An Awakening in Exile
Ultimately, that’s KOL’s true strength: crafting a sense of place without relying on imports. It’s about preserving a memory without exoticizing it, and transmitting a heritage through emotion, not objects. Lastra isn’t striving for imitation; he’s seeking truth. And his truth burns slowly, swirls powerfully, whispers distantly, and illuminates subtly. A chef to watch!
