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It felt staged, like a photo op. As if the moose was employed by Visit Luleå and stationed, waiting for tourists. The “Instagram moose” contentedly munched on tree shoots at the edge of the forest, allowing itself to be casually photographed by passing motorists. I even had a nice chat with it through the open car window.
That was just the first day of my polar expedition in Norrbotten. I thought I’d feel like the out-of-touch cousin, but I quickly found myself as captivated as a Japanese tourist. I abandoned any pretense of being a worldly globetrotter trying to blend in, and instead fully embraced the role of a cherry blossom in the permafrost.
I received a lot of assist from my friend and guide, Eva Marie, who has little understanding of why one shouldn’t always maximize everything. My experiences were carefully wrapped in cellophane, easy to pack in a carry-on. The moose was a fortunate bonus. She happily declared that Norrbotten delivers.
I hadn’t realized how much you could fit into a weekend at “Luleå tempo.” It started with a visit to Shopping, the world’s first indoor mall designed by Ralph Erskine. Then I stopped by Gammelstad Church Town, celebrating 30 years as a UNESCO World Heritage site. I even got an autograph from the star player on the Luleå Basket team after their decisive win in the Swedish basketball league, and indulged in a lavish “after work” buffet that could have easily sustained me for the entire weekend.
I also let myself be driven straight out onto an ice road in the archipelago to enjoy blueberry waffles at Jopikgården. I received a private lesson on navigating the expertly prepared ski trails at Ormberget, and competed in a challenging trivia quiz at one of the many pubs on Storgatan.
But the most magical moment happened in Gemträsk. Everyone should experience being pulled on a dog sled by six huskies giving it their all, at least once in their life. I seamlessly glided over powder snow through the frosty forest outside Boden, feeling completely connected to the elements. I reached a Norrbottnian nirvana, seated on a reindeer hide over an open fire with smoked reindeer meat, homemade bread, coffee, and cake.
The weekend also taught me what 21 degrees below zero does to cheeks, fingers, and joints in just a few minutes. I had to borrow a Gore-Tex hat with fur ears due to the fact that my nylon knit cap from Åhléns was anything but windproof.
The only thing I didn’t see was the Northern Lights. But I might obtain lucky enough to see them one day in Stockholm. Or on my next trip to the polar regions. Norrbotten can’t be over-touristed.
Read more columns, for example, Jessica on preparing for a polar expedition in the north as a newbie.
