A shift is occurring in the world of Italian gelato, with some artisans and experts suggesting a move beyond simply “artisanal” production toward a more culinary-focused approach. This evolution centers on treating gelato-making as a gastronomic art, emphasizing ingredient processing, cooking techniques, and thoughtful flavor pairings—skills traditionally associated with chefs.
The discussion unfolded at the Fuori Gelato event, part of the Gelato Week 2026 held at the Carpigiani University in Bologna on April 13th. The event served as a platform for exploring alternatives to the increasingly diluted definition of “artisanal” gelato, a term that currently lacks concrete legal regulation in Italy.
Martina Francesconi of Gelatina in Genoa, explained that the focus should be on the gelatiere themselves, rather than solely on the “artisanal” process. “It would be better to talk more about gelatiere than about gelato,” she said. Francesconi draws inspiration from theoretical frameworks, such as those presented in Professor Nicola Perullo’s book, La cucina è arte?, which draws parallels between the creative methods of chefs, and gelatiere.
The need for this shift stems from a growing concern that gelato is often perceived as a secondary product, consumed casually rather than savored. Francesconi expressed her frustration with this perception, stating, “I suffer very much from the fact that gelato is considered a product of series B, something to eat while walking instead of tasting.”
Stefano Ferrara and Renato Trabalza, also participating in the forum and masterclasses at Fuori Gelato, echoed this sentiment. They advocate for a constructive and authorial approach to gelato-making, where recipes are viewed as projects requiring careful consideration of ingredients and their preparation. This evolving approach to gelato production could potentially elevate the standards and perception of the dessert.
Currently, the term “artisanal” gelato in Italy is largely undefined, leading to inconsistencies in quality and production methods. While some regional regulations and guidelines exist—often requiring manual intervention and on-site production—there is no national standard defining the use of quality ingredients. This lack of regulation has allowed some producers to label their products as “artisanal” despite using pre-made mixes and preservatives. The discussion highlights the need for clearer standards to protect the integrity of high-quality gelato and ensure consumers can confidently identify truly exceptional products.
