Following recurring COVID-19 lockdowns, china is experiencing a surprising surge in demand for high-end outdoor apparel, a trend dubbed “Gorpcore.” What began as a niche aesthetic inspired by practical hiking gear has rapidly evolved into a status symbol,fueled by a growing focus on personal wellness and a desire for experiences among Chinese consumers. This shift is not only reshaping the country’s retail landscape but also offering a key possibility for sportswear brands-notably domestic giant Anta-to gain market share amidst broader economic headwinds.
China’s recurring COVID-19 lockdowns have spurred a significant shift in consumer priorities, with a growing emphasis on personal health and wellness. This has translated into increased participation in activities like running, hiking, and tennis, influencing both lifestyles and apparel choices.
The country is experiencing a boom in the health and wellness sector, offering a rare bright spot in a struggling retail landscape and providing valuable lessons for luxury brands seeking to reconnect with their key market.
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The emergence of “Gorpcore” – a term coined by an American writer in 2017 inspired by a popular trail mix – exemplifies this trend. The style involves adopting practical, outdoor-focused clothing for everyday wear. While China was initially slow to embrace the aesthetic, it has now firmly taken hold.
A widely circulated satirical meme, translating to “one bird, two trees, three ways,” highlights the phenomenon. It references the logos of three outdoor apparel brands – Arc’teryx, Kolon, and Descente – now considered essential workwear for professionals.
All three brands are subsidiaries of Anta Sports Products, China’s largest sportswear company, which began as a modest shoe retailer. The popularity of this trend has helped Anta maintain a revenue edge over long-dominant market leader Nike.
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Arc’teryx’s waterproof jackets, named after the flying dinosaur, retail for around 8,000 yuan (approximately $1,100 USD) – just 2,000 yuan less than the average monthly salary in a major city like Shenzhen. Outerwear from Kolon and Descente ranges from 2,000 to 5,000 yuan. While many buyers may not be scaling icy peaks, these brands have become status symbols, reflecting a desire for new experiences.
Chinese President Xi Jinping has been seen wearing an Arc’teryx jacket during visits to the Beijing Winter Olympics sites in 2021 and again at the opening ceremony the following year.
Growth Outpaces General Apparel Market
Data from Euromonitor International projects that China’s sportswear market will grow by 6.1% this year, exceeding the anticipated 1.5% growth in the overall apparel and footwear market. This divergence underscores the strength of the health and wellness trend.
Within the social media-driven e-commerce landscape, the Gorpcore trend is even more pronounced. Revenues for outerwear and outdoor pants surged 49% last year to $2.7 billion, according to e-commerce consultancy WPIC Marketing + Technologies.
Anta, originally known as Fujian Tiger, was one of many footwear manufacturers clustered in eastern China during the 1980s, producing athletic shoes for brands like Nike and Adidas.
While the division encompassing its Gorpcore brands accounted for only 19% of revenue in the first half of the year, it remains the company’s fastest-growing segment.
The fallout from a public relations crisis in September involving Arc’teryx is being closely monitored. Images widely circulated online of a fireworks display over a scenic Tibetan landscape sparked widespread criticism regarding potential environmental damage and calls for a boycott of the brand, and by extension, Anta.
News reports indicated that four Chinese officials were dismissed and Arc’teryx China’s general manager resigned. The company’s CEO acknowledged a slowdown in sales following the incident during an earnings call, but noted a subsequent recovery coinciding with colder weather.
A Passing Fad or a Societal Shift?
Fashion trends are inherently cyclical, and it remains to be seen whether the Gorpcore phenomenon will endure. However, the focus on health and wellness appears to be more than a fleeting trend. Beijing aims to expand its sports economy to seven trillion yuan by 2030, nearly double the projected figure for 2023.
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This specialized market is unlikely to single-handedly reverse the slowdown in consumer spending, but it represents a segment where brands can rely on growth amid a broader decline in discretionary consumption. Data released on Monday showed a record slowdown in retail sales, excluding the pandemic period.
The shift towards outdoor activities offers a glimmer of hope in a challenging market, and this trend is expected to continue into the new year.
