A sprawling 16-courtyard ancestral home in southern India, the Moppil Nayar Tharavad in Mannarkkad, is facing collapse, threatening a tangible link to Kerala’s rich cultural past. Once the seat of power for a family of regional commanders dating back centuries, the estate-a rare example of customary Kerala architecture-has stood vacant for 15 years and is now in critical disrepair. As detailed in the following report, local advocates are urging government intervention to save this landmark before its history vanishes with its weathered timbers.
A historic estate in southern Malabar, India, is facing potential collapse, a stark reminder of a bygone era. The 16-courtyard ancestral home, known as the Moppil Nayar Tharavad in Mannarkkad, stands as one of the last remaining examples of Kerala’s architectural heritage and a testament to a powerful family’s legacy. The estate’s plight underscores the challenges of preserving India’s cultural landmarks as time and the elements take their toll.
The history of the Moppil Nayar Tharavad is deeply intertwined with that of Mannarkkad in the Palakkad district. For generations, the family wielded considerable influence over the region encompassing the Attappadi hills, Mannarkkad, and the Kunthippuzha River. Their story begins with the area’s former rulers, the lords of the land.
The Lord of the Land, Moppil Nayar
The title of Moppil Nayar was historically bestowed upon commanders in the army of the Samoothiri, the Zamorin of Calicut. After defeating the Valluvakonathiri, the Samoothiri entrusted the responsibility of Mannarkkad and the Attappadi hills to Kunnatat Madampil Moppil Nayar. The family’s journey to Mannarkkad began with their relocation from Valambur, near Thirur in Malappuram district. Moppil Nayar also brought with them the sacred presence of the goddess from Thiru Mandhamkunnu in Angadippuram, Malappuram, enshrining her within the Tharavad. Later, this divine energy was consecrated facing the rising sun on the banks of the Kunthippuzha River to protect Kunnat Swaroopam. Legend has it that the goddess became the protector of the region, known as Karakurissi Udayorkunnu Bhagavathy.
A 16-Courtyard Home That Tells a Story
Construction of the Moppil Nayar building began around 200 years ago, initially featuring a thatched roof. The project unfolded in three phases, with the second and third stages completed in 1895 and 1905, respectively. Timber was transported from the Attappadi hills via the Kunthippuzha River. It’s estimated that up to 4000 tons of wood were used in the construction. The intricate wood carvings were crafted using the “ulichettu” technique. European architectural influences are also evident in the building’s design. Tiles for the roof were later sourced from the Farook Tile Factory.
At its peak, the 16-courtyard estate housed approximately 50 families. The unique feature of a 16-courtyard home is its four central courtyards, each serving as the focal point for rooms arranged to the south, north, east, and west. The family deity is traditionally enshrined in the southern courtyard, while the kitchen is located in the northern section. The estate boasts four separate kitchens. In addition to the courtyards, the Tharavad includes a “pumukham,” or reception area, and spacious rooms for entertaining guests. Adjacent to the estate are a “sarppakavu,” a snake grove, and the family temple. A 16-courtyard home is four times the size of a four-courtyard home and twice the size of an eight-courtyard home, offering ample space to accommodate a growing family.
The Moppil Nayar Tharavad in Mannarkkad reached its height of power between 1934 and 1954. During this period, the family owned vast landholdings, approximately 15,000 “para” of paddy fields, and a significant number of elephants, as well as ownership of six temples. The decline of the Tharavad began with the end of the feudal system and the implementation of land reforms, which ultimately led to its disintegration. The estate has been uninhabited for the past 15 years.
“When Jasmine Blooms in Margazhi…”
The Karakurissi Udayorkunnu Bhagavathy Temple is renowned for its seven-day annual festival held during the month of Kumbham. The Mannarkkad Pooram festival, a celebration of an entire region, was initiated by the Moppil Nayar family.
The song “Margazhiyil Mallika Poothaal Mannarkkad Pooram,” penned by P. Bhaskaran for the 1976 film “Ponni,” directed by Thoppil Bhasi and based on M.T. Vasudevan Nair’s novel, continues to evoke the history, social fabric, and enduring traditions of Mannarkkad.
Historically, the Moppil Nayar family invited members of the Attappadi tribal community to witness the festival on the seventh day, known as Valiyarattu, and provided them with a feast. The “kanjiparachil,” a porridge offering held on the banks of the Kunthippuzha River on Valiyarattu day, continues this tradition.
The Tharavad also served as a filming location for several notable Malayalam films. Balan Mash, the iconic character portrayed by Mammootty, resided within the Moppil Nayar Tharavad. The estate served as the backdrop for “Thaniyavarthanam,” directed by C.B. Malaya, released in 1987. The estate also appeared in scenes from the 1993 film “Gazal” and numerous documentaries. “Shyamalachhechi,” released in 1965, was the first film shot at the location.
A Need for a New Era
The prestige of the Tharavad reached its zenith during the time of Kochunni and Thathunni Moppil Nayars. Thathunni established the K.T.M High School (Kunnathat Thathunni Madampil High School) in Mannarkkad. T. Sivadasa Menon, a prominent CPM leader and former minister, began his career as a teacher and politician at this school.
For years, local residents have called for the government to acquire and preserve the deteriorating Tharavad. They believe that the estate’s story can be passed down to future generations, preserving a vital piece of the region’s history and cultural identity.
