Researchers at the University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) have developed a new mineral sunscreen formulation designed to minimize the white cast, or chalky appearance, often left on skin by products containing zinc oxide.
Daily protection from ultraviolet (UV) rays is crucial for preventing skin cancer, the most commonly diagnosed cancer in the United States. However, many people avoid using mineral sunscreens due to their undesirable appearance, particularly on darker skin tones. This reluctance highlights a public health challenge, as consistent sunscreen use is a cornerstone of skin cancer prevention.
Re-engineering Zinc Oxide Instead of Replacing It
Scientists at UCLA’s Comprehensive Cancer Center conducted a study to determine if the cosmetic issue could be resolved without altering the active ingredient itself.
The results, published in the journal ACS Materials Letters, showed that changing the physical structure of the zinc oxide particles could significantly improve both appearance and texture.
Instead of traditional, spherical nanoparticles, the researchers designed microscopic particles with four arms, known as “tetrapods.” This shape prevents clumping and allows the particles to distribute more evenly within the formulation.
Effective Protection Without Compromising SPF
When tested with the same concentration of zinc oxide used in conventional products, the new formulation achieved:
A Sun Protection Factor (SPF) approaching 30
Improved stability over time
A noticeable reduction in separation or thickening
Importantly, the new particles reflected visible light differently, making the formulation appear closer to natural skin tone instead of the usual white or gray cast, without the need for additional dyes or coatings.
Particularly Critical for People with Darker Skin
This innovation could have a significant health impact, especially for individuals with darker skin, who studies demonstrate are less likely to use sunscreen and are at higher risk of being diagnosed with skin cancer at advanced stages.
While melanoma is less common in these populations, the risk of death is relatively higher due to delayed diagnosis.
Toward Practical Application in the Market
The technology still requires additional testing before commercial release, but researchers say the initial results are encouraging.
The team is currently collaborating with the UCLA Department of Dermatology, including the “Skin of Color Clinic,” to study the interaction of the new particles with skin microbiome in preparation for practical application.
In Summary
Altering the shape of zinc oxide particles reduces the white cast without affecting protection from UV rays.
The new formulation provides a more natural appearance and improved stability.
The innovation may encourage daily sunscreen compliance, contributing to skin cancer prevention.
Researchers emphasize that the best sunscreen is the one people will use consistently, and improving the cosmetic aspect may be an important step in promoting public health.
