As the scent of cinnamon, star anise, and cardamom fills kitchens this holiday season, a deeper story emerges-one that extends far beyond festive baking. For centuries, these spices have held immense cultural and economic significance, once valued as currency and driving global trade routes. A new report examines the complex history of these commodities, from their origins as rare luxuries to their modern-day status and the challenges facing producers today.
Star anise, cinnamon, and cardamom are synonymous with the holiday season for many. But spices are far more than just flavor enhancers – they connect cultures, evoke memories, and have historically served medicinal purposes. Their presence in traditional Christmas baking, however, is a relatively recent development.
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Long before they graced holiday tables, spices were among the first goods traded globally, prized for their unique flavors and long shelf life. Traveling by land and sea, they made their way from Asia to the Middle East and eventually to Europe over 2,000 years ago. Their scarcity and high demand led to spices being used as currency, with pepper in the Middle Ages sometimes valued at the same weight as gold. The spice trade was so lucrative that merchants often resorted to dishonest practices: cheaper juniper berries were added to pepper, and ground cinnamon was mixed with sand.
The Story Behind Christmas Spices
“Spices used to be an expensive luxury that people could only afford for special occasions,” explains Phuong Nguyen, a doctoral candidate in anthropology at the University of Zurich. This historical context explains why they became so closely associated with celebratory foods.
During the Lenten season before Christmas – when fresh herbs were unavailable and meals were rather monotonous – spices enhanced the flavor of food.
Their ability to be stored for long periods made them particularly valuable during leaner months. “Especially during the Lenten season before Christmas – when fresh herbs were unavailable and meals were rather monotonous – spices enhanced the flavor of food,” Nguyen said.
Cinnamon, star anise, and other familiar holiday spices didn’t become firmly established as Christmas staples until the 18th century, coinciding with the popularization of the Christmas holiday itself. In contrast, in Asia, these spices are used year-round, as exemplified by Pho, the traditional Vietnamese noodle soup.
A street kitchen in Hanoi displays bowls of hot Pho, the traditional Vietnamese noodle soup. Spices like cassia cinnamon, star anise, and black cardamom define the dish, enjoyed throughout the year.
Courtesy Völkerkundemuseum der Universität Zürich / He Tekken
The Downside of Globalization
Globalization and faster supply chains have diminished the status of many spices as luxury goods, turning them into commodities. This shift, however, has drawbacks. “Especially in cinnamon production, there are problematic monocultures,” says Annuska Derks, Professor of Social Anthropology. The change underscores the complex consequences of global trade.
A farmer peels cinnamon bark with a sickle. The trees are felled for harvest, and the bark is carefully removed. Cassia cinnamon cultivation provides a vital income source for many ethnic minorities in northern Vietnam. Vietnam is the world’s largest cinnamon exporter.
Courtesy Völkerkundemuseum der Universität Zürich / Phuong Nguyen
Harvesting the bark used to make cinnamon requires felling the trees. “Intensive agriculture can lead to soil erosion and a loss of biodiversity,” Derks explained. At the same time, cinnamon production has provided a modest livelihood for many farming families.
Uses Beyond the Kitchen
Spices also play a role as medicinal remedies. In traditional Vietnamese medicine, cinnamon is used to stabilize blood sugar levels, while cardamom is used for stomach ailments.
A farmer harvesting star anise in Vietnam. The fruits of the evergreen star anise tree are detached from the branches with hooks and then dried in the sun. The trees can grow up to 20 meters high.
Courtesy Völkerkundemuseum der Universität Zürich / Phuong Nguyen
In Western medicine, star anise provided a key component in the production of the drug Tamiflu during the swine and subsequent avian flu outbreaks in the 2000s.
At times, star anise prices were so low that even harvesting the fruit was no longer worthwhile.
During this period, the price of star anise soared – doubling within a week. However, the flu medication is now produced with a synthesized ingredient, and prices have since fallen. These price fluctuations were significant for many farming families, according to Annuska Derks. “At times, the prices were so low that even harvesting the fruit was no longer worthwhile.”
Research into spices has also shown Annuska Derks and Phuong Nguyen that spices represent home and security for many people. “I bring spices from my travels in Asia back to Switzerland,” says Annuska Derks. “I then need them in Fondue Chinoise.” Because spices also connect cultures.
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